Gain complimentary access to the Editor’s Briefing
The FT’s Editor, Roula Khalaf, handpicks her top narratives for this weekly bulletin.
American beauty conglomerate Estée Lauder Companies has commenced legal proceedings against scent creator Jo Malone, her recently established aroma label, and Zara’s British operations, due to the utilization of her moniker.
In 1999, the British businesswoman Jo Malone divested her namesake fragrance enterprise and associated naming rights to Estée Lauder Companies. She then relinquished her role as creative director in 2006. For half a decade, she was obligated by a stringent non-competition agreement. This also included a prohibition against employing the designation “Jo Malone” for any business endeavors.
Estée Lauder is presently pursuing legal action against Malone concerning a contractual violation, infringement of intellectual property, and what is termed “passing off” — an expression within English jurisprudence denoting the act of deceiving patrons into believing products or provisions are affiliated with a different enterprise.
Malone, a resident of Dubai who spent her formative years on a public housing complex in Barnehurst, south-east London, has expressed remorse over relinquishing her name’s rights and, in numerous discussions, characterized it as the “most significant error of her existence.”
Upon the conclusion of her non-competition stipulation in 2011, Malone established a fresh fragrance label, named Jo Loves.
In the prior year, Jo Loves debuted an accessible aroma partnership with the prominent retail chain Zara. The scent’s container prominently displays the phrase: “Conceived by Jo Malone CBE, originator of Jo Loves”.
The employment of “Jo Malone” on Zara’s product containers constitutes the foundation of Estée Lauder’s legal complaint, which was submitted towards the close of Wednesday.
Malone is not the inaugural originator to divest personal naming entitlements. Cosmetic artist Bobbi Brown likewise divested her namesake label to Estée Lauder and subsequently inaugurated “Jones Road”, meanwhile, bag creator Kate Spade legitimately altered her personal appellation to Kate Valentine to correspond with her fresh venture, having surrendered name prerogatives in a 2007 transaction with Liz Claiborne.
A representative for Estée Lauder Companies informed the FT that the firm had made significant capital injections into the label over the preceding quarter-century to broaden its global reach.
“In 1999, when Ms Jo Malone divested the label to The Estée Lauder Companies, she consented to explicit contractual provisions, which encompassed abstaining from utilizing the Jo Malone appellation in particular business scenarios, notably the promotion of perfumes,” the representative affirmed.
“As an element of this accord, she received remuneration, and for a prolonged period, she adhered to its stipulations. Ms Malone’s deployment of the designation ‘Jo Malone’ in relation to contemporary business undertakings surpasses that lawful arrangement and diminishes Jo Malone London’s distinct brand value.”
The representative further stated: “We acknowledge Ms Malone’s entitlement to pursue fresh endeavors. However, legally enforceable contractual duties cannot be ignored, and should those provisions be violated, we shall safeguard the brand that we have cultivated and invested in across several decades.”
Jo Malone, Jo Loves, and Zara UK did not promptly respond to an inquiry for their input.

